It’s taken me three months to write this post. On a blog where the majority of the posts are finished within ten hours of it happening, publishing three months afterwards is a lifetime for me. Why? I think I’ve been reluctant to put a bow on what was a magical holiday vacation. Also, Lisbon gave me some travel redemption and quickly became one of my favorite cities in the world. Tillie and I were supposed to visit Lisbon (and Porto) for my 40th birthday in 2022, but a positive COVID test derailed our plans two days before departing. Anticipation to visit Portugal was high, and Lisbon did not disappoint.

Waking up in the heart of London, we hopped on a train to get to London Gatwick Airport that sits south of the city. We were flying Transportes Aéreos Portugueses, also known as TAP Air Portugal, an innovative airline that has helped facilitate a tourism boom within the country. Our flight was a great example of the popular stopover flights that have brought waves to visit Portugal. Originating from London, the flight was technically from London to Chicago, but we booked a three-day stopover (layover) in Lisbon. Being on this flight was also an introduction to the Portuguese language. Good luck!

We landed and took the subway to Santa Apolónia train station. We had booked an apartment in the Alfama region of Lisbon, an old and hilly section of town filled with history, cobblestones, and an amazing castle. In 1755, Lisbon experienced a devastating earthquake, but most of Alfama was spared. Today’s it’s known as the oldest area of town, which also means that it is full of awesome.

After settling in, we ventured up the hill for dinner as the sun began to set. Along the way, we were acquainted with a few Lisbon staples – stairs, colorful buildings, and out of this world views.

We had a casual seafood dinner as the sun set, enjoyed some gelato, and explored our new home as we descended through Alfama’s maze of streets.

The next morning, I was definitely antsy to get out and about. I generally get a bit anxious upon landing in a new city. My mind always asks my body – Are we going to have enough time to see what we want to see? My list of Lisbon landmarks was quite hefty, and I knew that I had a few to check off in the Alfama area. I headed out by myself for a quick adventure, like the old days on my running trips.

I found the Panteão Nacional (National Pantheon), originally a church that now hosts the burial spots of important Portuguese personalities. I was quickly reminded of the trickiest part of the solo, donor-thanking adventure – figuring out how to take the picture. With nobody in sight, I found a cobblestone that was positioned higher than the others and thanked Mike & Deb Sedlacek. Still got it!

Also in Alfama is the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major, also known as the Lisbon Cathedral. It has the honor of being called the Lisbon Cathedral because it is, in fact, Lisbon’s oldest cathedral. I once again found a camera prop, this time a trash can, and I thanked Robbie Nunes for his donation. The surname Nunes is Portuguese, and I know Robbie was excited to sponsor a stop in Lisbon! A proud Californian, Robbie is pursuing a law degree at UC, Davis after spending some time with us at Phi Delta Theta’s General Headquarters.

If you begin reading about things to do in Lisbon, you will definitely learn about fado music. As stated on the pedia of Wiki, fado is a form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sense of resignation, fate and melancholy. Not a lot of joy in the music, but dinner and fado show is pretty hip around here. We stayed just up the street from the Museu Do Fado where I stopped and thanked fellow Cyclone and Phi Delt Jay Longnecker who is not characterized by mournful lyrics or melancholy.

I returned to our apartment with a box full of pastéis to meet up with the crew. More on this delightful treat later. We took off up the cobblestone hills of Alfama again on the way to ride the famous Tram 28. Lisbon is the San Francisco of Europe, and there are a number of similarities between the two cities. One similarity is the famous trams/cable cars that navigate folks through the hills. I adore riding street cars and could sit on one for hours if needed to see a city. We definitely jumped on Tram 28 going the opposite way I had planned, and our ride was shorter than expected. This particular route is very touristy, so we would have had to wait a good hour to get back on. I did have enough time to thank my buddy Mark Pleiss and get some good shots of the kids. Cal asked if Mark is coming back for Thanksgiving this year, a highlight for Cal during the COVID era.

Our next stop was the Igreja de São Domingos or Church of St. Dominic for a Runner’s Choice photo. Jason took the kids inside for a quick tour and the opportunity to forgive their sins as I stood outside and stared at this stately facade. I once again thanked Lawrence & Brandy Cunningham for their donation and support. It’s no Corn Palace (Lawrence is from Mitchell, South Dakota), but I did my best.

You know, it’s always great when a good plan comes together. I admit, when I include some landmarks on my running trip routes, I have specific people in mind, hoping that they’ll pick up on my nod and sponsor the stop. This was the case for Praça do Rossio or Rossio Square in Lisbon. I remember it very clearly, my great friend Ross Roti texting, “Well, I should probably sponsor Rossio Square.” Boom, got him! I’ve enjoyed sending Ross pictures of Ross Dress for Less stores during my travels over the years as well as many Roti flatbread restaurants that I encounter. No matter where I go, I can always find something to remind me of my buddy Ross. The kids are even on the lookout now.

Wow, the Santa Justa Lift is pretty cool! I remember seeing pictures of this elevator while doing some Lisbon research. In any city with a plethora of hills, a good viewpoint goes a long ways. It also attracts many tourists, hence why I am at the bottom of the lift in the pictures below. It would have been great to go up the lift, but we had some other views planned for the day. Cal was very proud of his picture angle on my thank you sign to Shane and Jenna Oman, and so was I. Shane and Jenna have been awesome supporters over the years, and I love thanking this fun Fort Dodge duo!

Tess noticed a store dedicated to Portugal’s favorite son Christiano Ronaldo and needed a picture. Tess is our soccer player, and she seems to have a tough time selecting between Ronaldo and Messi as her favorite player. Up next was one of my highlights of the day, the Carmo Convent. The medieval Catholic convent was ruined during the the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, but much of its facade still stands. Upon walking in, it takes your breath away. My cousin Adam always tells me “Find us something good, Steve” when donating to my running trips, and I nailed it this time! Thanks Adam & Lindsey!

Nearby, was another great view. They seem to be everywhere in Lisbon. I pulled the kids in to thank my long-time partner in crime, Travis Griffith and his wife Steph. Griff and I are living proof that Cyclones and Hawkeyes can live in peace and actually enjoy each other. I always think of family when I thank Travis, as his family was my second family growing up. I’ve also found myself reflecting often on our experience growing up and how fluid our lives were living across the street from each other. Tillie will tell you that I get very frustrated when I feel like I have to plan or schedule my kids’ interactions with friends, or activities, or fun. My goodness, just walk outside, jump on your bike, roam the neighborhood, and see what fun you can get yourself into.

We walked through the Barrio Alto Quarter, famous for its vibrant nightlife and home to the best restaurants and bars the city has to offer. But we had a handful of young kids with us, so we were there during the day when it is very quiet.

In between a multi-parent public bout with a moody Good child (won’t name names), I was able to thank the Jensens – Tillie’s sister Lauren, her husband Tom, and their kids. I could have used the power of all three Bell girls in that moment to reset the behavior course and tamper the hanger that had emerged.

Following lunch, we strolled down Rua Augusta, a lively street that overwhelms the senses. Thinking back on this trip with kids, it is a lot tougher to take in the hustle and bustle of a neighborhood when your primary focus is making sure that you haven’t lost a child. This street is one I wish we would have had more time to explore.

I used one of my Runner’s Choice thank you signs here, thanking my cousins Matt and Jessi Good for their donation. I always love thanking family members!

I literally turned around for my next photo, featuring the Arco da Rua Augusta, one of the most recognizable landmarks in Lisbon. When you’ve reached the arch, you know you’ve reached the water. I thanked Fred Reimer for his donation. Fred has been such a wonderful advocate and champion for everything Phi Delta Theta has done in the ALS space, and he is one of the most generous guys you’ll ever meet. If you live in the general New York City area, keep your eyes peeled, there’s a good chance you might stumble upon him doing push-ups on the bar of your favorite establishment as he raises money and awareness for ALS.

The arch leads you to the Praça do Comércio, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe and Lisbon´s great reception hall for visitors arriving by sea. Every European city seems to have “its place,” and this is definitely Lisbon’s.

I thanked my former colleague and world-travelin’ professional Andrew Norrie for his donation. It’s been fun to watch Andrew’s passion and charisma turn into a great career that’s given him some amazing experiences across the world.

Cal was not feeling well, so we trekked back to the apartment to rest up. A few hours later, it was time to venture up the hill again to Castelo de S. Jorge or Saint George’s Castle that sits above the city and can be seen from most viewpoints. In Alfama, half the fun is just getting lost on the way to things, and our walk to the castle was no different. I got a kick out of this outdoor toilet, and I found it ironic that out of all times where I desperately have needed to pee while walking in Europe, this was not one of those moments.

As you arrive at the castle, souvenir shops and street artists begin to appear, as do the crowds.

It’s really tough to go wrong with a castle in general, but man, this one was great. Upon entering, I thanked my former colleague Andrew Carlson. Andrew knows a good international view when he sees one, so this stop made a lot of sense. His travel Instagram account @headoutthere remains one of my favorites of all time, although we only get content about two times a year these days. We need more content Andrew!

The views at sunset at this place were stunning! We picked a great time to go.

And of course, the oldest girls made me do a photo shoot. This was my favorite picture taken of Alaina during the trip.

The next day, we set out to explore Belém. If you visit Lisbon, please spend a day in Belém. It’s an easy tram ride to get there and a very manageable neighborhood to see in less than a day. And my goodness, does it have some of the most majestic landmarks around! Our first stop was Jeronimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is huge. Honestly, it was really tough to get a good picture that showcases its scale. There was already a giant line to get in before opening, so we decide to simply marvel at it from the outside. I thanked good friends Bronk and Jess Harms. I have a lot to thank Bronk for, including my membership in Phi Delta Theta. In college, he served as a great role model for me, and continues to do so. We stopped through Denver last Spring Break and spent an evening with the Harms. So glad we did that!

A few more pictures with the Monastery in the background. Such a fun area!

Our next stop was the Monument to the Discoveries. Located along the river where ships departed to explore and trade with India and the Orient, the monument celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries. You may remember the names of some of the famous Portuguese explorers from your history classes – Ferdinand Maggellan and Vasca da Gama to name a few. I must say, this landmark might be one of my favorites during all of my travels. It is incredible! And what a great place to thank the Purdys for their donation!

Jason and I went up with the kids, while the ladies enjoyed having their feet on the ground below. What views!

Walking away from the monument provided an amazing view of the waterfront.

We continued to walk up the coast to another incredible site, the Belém Tower. The tower served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. It also symbolizes Portugal’s maritime and colonial power in early modern Europe.

I thanked fellow Iowa State Phi Delt Josh Ehlen again for his donation. Josh did a great job of picking two great towers in Europe to sponsor!

At the tower, Alaina, Tess, and I explored the beach around the Tower, and it was so fun to watch the girls explore, hop rocks, and be kids with this stately landmark towering above.

It was time for a treat, and what better treat to enjoy than the famous Porteguese pastéis, an egg custard tart pastry, dusted with cinnamon. If you search for where to find the best pastéis in Lisbon, you will inevitably stumble upon Pastéis de Belém. Since 1837, this shop has been serving them up, and the line around the block proves that they are worth a stop. We grabbed a small box and enjoyed them on the sidewalk. I also thanked Ross and Megan Roti again for their donation. When my 40th birthday trip to Lisbon was cancelled due to my fun with COVID, my really thoughtful, gift-giving boss Sean Wagner sent us a box of pastéis to enjoy at home, a gesture that will stick with us for years! It was a full circle moment, enjoying them in Lisbon.

We walked down the road to the Palácio Nacional de Belém or Belém Palace, the current official residence of the president of the Portuguese Republic. I clearly had not done my research, as I couldn’t figure out how to get closer to the palace for a picture. It’s pretty heavily guarded for obvious reasons. We found a nice park across the street in order to get a shot of the palace in the background. I thanked my cousin Aaron Good and his wife Lindsey who also live in Ames. Our kids were lucky to interact with Lindsey everyday when she worked at their elementary school, and it’s fun to run into them often around town.

On the way home, I was in search of a good spot to capture Lisbon’s famous tiles that cover its buildings. They are everywhere throughout the city and add to the dynamic scenery of this glorious city. Tess joined me to thank “Grandpa Timmy,” Tillie’s dad and best baker in west central Iowa. We need to get him to start baking pastéis!

During our final evening of the trip, we decided to walk to the top of Alfama once again to enjoy dinner and take in the views one last time. As the sun began to set, I thanked Andy Tu with an assist from a great Lisbon background. Andy was one of my first donors for this specific trip, and he knew what he was doing, selecting Alfama from the many options in front of him.

A few other sights caught my eye along the way – Portugal’s favorite fish, the sardine, as an American Gothic parody and some more tiles made for Cal.

The end of the trip had arrived. We were exhausted from the travel, ready to make the journey home, but sad to be leaving the Purdys and the many memories we had made. We walked to the nearby train station to catch the subway to the airport, but I had one last thank you sign in my pocket. I was hoping to thank Mike and Debby Purdy at Lisbon’s Time Out Market, but were not able to get to it. So I figured my farewell picture from this scenic station should thank someone from the Purdy family.

Lisbon, we will be back!