There’s nothing quite like a European adventure, and besides Canada, the annual Iron Phi running trip had never ventured outside of North America. Until 2023. When Tillie and I learned about her sister’s move to Spangdahlem Air Base in Germany, we knew that we needed to plan for some extended time with the Purdy family over the holidays. Plus, our kids had never been abroad, and we were ready to take the leap (long flight). Incorporating the running trip scavenger hunt approach to a multi-family vacation that would cover Paris, Germany, Luxembourg, London, and Lisbon was a bit intimidating, but I was ready for some fun.

We decided to drive to Chicago to take a direct flight to Paris. Thanks to my frequent flying on United and use of the United Explorer Visa, I was able to book four one-way tickets to Paris for 120,000 points + $22.40. A great way to start the trip!

After a smooth overnight flight, we landed at Charles de Gaulle Airport. The kids (and I) were mesmerized by one of the big train schedule boards as we prepared to board the Paris Métro to get into the central city. I’m a bit obsessed with train/subway travel, and I was very excited to witness the kids as they experienced it.

I think Paris can be described best as romantic, gritty, and stylish, and I was reminded of this right away standing on the platform of our first Métro connection of the trip. Thinking back on our time in Paris, one of my favorite memories is my son Calvin looking at me during our first few hours in Paris, and saying, “Wow, this is a whole new vibe!”

I have been to Paris a few times, and there is one specific neighborhood that always calls my name. Montmarte, the Bohemian village on the hill, is classic Paris, filled with cobblestones, windmills, stairs, artists, amazing views, and history. Home to many a Parisian artist over the years, including a guy named van Gough, Montmarte attracts a big tourist crowd on the weekends, but seems to thin out at night and during the week. One warning about Montmarte is that if you decide to stay in its heart, prepare for a good workout as you drag your luggage up steep hills and stairs. If you happen to have young children with you after an overnight flight, add a whole lot of patience to that list. Go watch the movie Amélie for a fun look at Montmarte.

After fighting through the Sunday afternoon crowd and checking in to our Airbnb (more on this later), we headed out to meet our fellow travelers (more on them later too!) on the steps of Montmarte’s greatest landmark – the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur. The church was vibrant that evening, with Parisians and tourists alike gathered around the impressive structure.

After dinner and short walk in Montmarte, we said goodbye to the Purdy family for the evening and walked around a bit more to re-familiarize ourselves with the neighborhood. With a bit of anxiety about all of the donor stops I would need to hit during our short stop in Paris, I was comforted that first evening of the trip as we passed LouLou of Montmarte, a subtle reminder that this vacation also had a greater purpose, to raise funds and awareness for those with Lou Gehrig’s disease.

We enjoyed popping in to a number of the souvenir shops near Place du Terte, a now quiet square that hours ago was completely filled with tourists and artists selling their talents. We’re not really ones to bring home a lot of souvenirs when we travel (minimalists unite), but Tess’ 1.30€ bedazzled Eiffel Tower coin purse became my go-to coin holder during the trip. Those darn Euro coins.

Everything was very festive leading up to Christmas. We arrived in Paris on December 17.

Walking around, I had another fun reflection moment, remembering that our first Airbnb experience was on this road in Montmarte. Nearly 10 years ago! I remember being so nervous for that first Airbnb experience, but that platform has since changed my life and provided for so many memorable experiences for my family and me.

With some good rest in us, we woke up the next morning ready to see the sights! I didn’t realize how short the December days are in Paris. It wasn’t truly light in the morning until 9am and dark would start to creep in before 5pm. We’re used to the very early winter evenings in Iowa, but the dark Paris mornings caught me off guard. Right outside of our Airbnb, and to further show off Montmarte, I thanked my first donor of the trip – Tyler Cronk. Tyler has been an awesome supporter of my running trips over the years and is one of the many Iowa State Phi Delts who have settled north in Minneapolis.

At 9am on a Monday morning, Place du Terte is very quiet. The day before, absolutely packed, and no open seats were to be found at the cafes that line the border of the square. I decided to take advantage of the silence and thank Chris Loschiavo. Parisian cafes are a way of life. To be honest, dining in Paris can be a bit intimidating at first, especially with young kids in tow. Because it’s such a way of life and built into the culture, we definitely had some moments of wondering, “Is that a place we are welcome?” Having said this, most fear that arises during travel (no matter where it is but especially in different cultures) is self-imposed, and you just have to get over it. People are people, businesses are businesses, cash is cash. Back to Chris – Like those we traveled with on this trip, Chris is a military professional who has lived and worked all over the world. He’s also a wonderful supporter of Phi Delta Theta, the Live Like Lou Foundation, and Iron Phi. Thanks Chris!

We walked back over to the Sacré-Cœur to thank Keith Wysocki. This church is a top five landmark for me from all my travels. It’s so majestic, in a neighborhood I love, filled with energy, and has one of the best views of Paris. I was so excited to thank Keith, that we got two angles for him. Tillie and I attended Keith and his wife Andrea’s wedding this summer in Omaha and had an absolute blast. I’ve told many people since that Keith was the best groom I’ve ever seen. A flawless performance! Keith and I used to work together at Phi Delt, and he continues to be a great volunteer for the Fraternity. He’s also one of those Nebraska Cornhusker fans who has reasonable expectations, which I appreciate greatly.

A view from the stairs.

And the view of Paris if you turn around on the stairs. It was quite foggy that day. I’ll prove it to you a bit.

We linked up with the Purdy family, jumped on the Métro, and made our way to the world-famous Eiffel Tower. We figured that there was no better way to kick off an international trip than to visit a recognizable landmark. As mentioned, it was very foggy, but the fog gave the Eiffel Tower one amazing look.

A fun picture of Cal holding his cousin Jocelyn’s hand as they approached the tower. 🙂

Honestly, I didn’t really have any intentions of going up the Eiffel Tower as it’s generally very crowded. But at 10am on Monday morning in December, we truly lucked out. We got right in and decided to go up halfway to stay below the fog. A view from the base of the Tower.

Before going up though, I made sure to thank Ryan and Nicole Galles for their donation. The Eiffel Tower, for obvious reasons, was one of the first landmarks to go when I opened up my fundraising this year. Ryan was all over it! Fellow Cyclone tailgaters, NW Iowans, and havers of good times, we love spending time with the Galles family. In fact, Ryan will be joining me on the 2024 running trip, and we’re scheming on some potential routes. Shenanigans to commence very soon.

A fun moment occurred after Cal took the photo below. The gentleman, who you can see wearing the Tampa Bay Rays hat in the photo, recruited Cal to take a picture for him. He was impressed with both Cal’s commitment to laying down on the cold ground to take my picture and his Montgomery Biscuits stocking hat. The Biscuits are a farm team for the Rays, and he works for the Rays.

A view of Paris from the middle deck of the Eiffel Tower. Looks warm, eh?

Cal and Alaina checking out the view.

When leaving the Eiffel Tower, if you cross the Seine River and head to Trocadéro Square, you’ll have one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower at your disposal.

Family picture time.

And let me introduce you to our fellow travelers – The Purdys – no relation to Brock. Jadee is Tillie’s awesome oldest sister, her husband Jason (actually a Washington Commanders fan and Colonel at Spangdahlem Air Base), and their three daughters (tallest to shortest) – Alaina “Wee” (9), Jocelyn ”Deuce” (6), and Caroline “No Nickname Needed” (4).

After lunch, we walked to the Arc de Triomphe. Built by Napoléon for his army, the Arc de Triomphe honors those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. With cars circling it non-stop, and visitors traversing underground to get to it, it’s quite the landmark!

Tess and I thanked the Davidsons – my sister Anne, brother-in-law Don, and nephews Will and Graham in Omaha. Anne and Don j’adore Paris and are good at wandering its streets and neighborhoods for days. If you visit their house, you’ll see some awesome professional photos taken of them in front of Paris sights! Tess was super-pumped to be in this specific photo, as I was telling her how much her aunt and uncle love this place.

A view from underneath the Arc de Triomphe.

And a group shot of the kids.

The Arc de Triomphe stands at the western end of the Champs-Élysées, the most recognizable shopping destination in Paris that is filled with flagship stores for luxury brands. The Champs-Élysées is also where the Tour de France ends and has been described as the “most beautiful avenue in the whole world.” It really is something to walk down one road and see the world’s most recognizable brands, one after the other. Tess thought that our friend Katie Jacobs would like the Apple Store as the background to her photo. I tried explaining that other buildings would probably be more representative, but nonetheless, there we were, at Apple. Thanks Katie! Katie is a fellow world traveler, Paris lover, sister of my cousin Adam’s wife Lindsey, and daughter to the man I see the most of anybody I know at the Des Moines International Airport.

We walked the entire Champs-Élysées and through the Tuileries Garden.

Until we reached The Louvre, you know, that place that hosts the Mona Lisa. While we didn’t take our big crew inside, walking around outside is a lot more fun (in my opinion). Plus, we got some free entertainment in the form of a police shakedown on an illegal merchant. I thanked fellow Phi Delt and Andrew McGuire for his donation. I know Andrew and his wife love Europe after living abroad for a few years. I’ve enjoyed seeing Andrew embrace the new dad life, and his IPA recs are always on point.

Cal, after waiting patiently for some clueless influencers to get off this box.

And another family photo.

After walking around a city all day with young children, compromises are needed. As you may suspect, adult travel desires are a bit different than child travel desires. Well lucky for us, it was Christmas time in Europe, and a good Christmas market was always a stone’s throw away. Fun for all! One of Paris’ best is in the Tuileries Garden near the Lourve.

Carnival rides? Sure!

I kind of wish I would have gone up for the view.

Christmas in big-city Europe is pretty magical, and Paris is no different. Leaving the market, we walked north on Rue de la Paix, another high-end shopping street that leads to the Palais Garnier, and enjoyed great Christmas decorations and flare.

And a United Colors of Benetton store display that included giant dogs. “Don’t mind us here. Not interested in your clothing, but that giant dog with Bret the Hitman Hart glasses is calling our names. Thanks, buh-bye.”

Day 2 – More exploring and starting the morning going down Montmarte’s stairs to meet the Purdys. This picture doesn’t really do it justice, but if you’re looking for a quad or calf workout, Montmarte is where it’s at.

Tuesday kicked off with a Métro ride to Île de la Cité (City Island), an island in the Seine river in the center of Paris. It’s also the home of Notre-Dame de Paris and Sainte-Chapelle. As you may know, Notre Dame caught fire back in 2019, and it has been closed to the public since. Climbing the stairs of Notre Dame and seeing the famous gargoyles is one of my favorite memories from previous trips to Paris. It’s always a bummer to be kept out of something, but knowing that the cathedral is being nursed back to good health is what matters. I thanked my Uncle Tom and Aunt Colleen Good for their donation. They’ve been two of my biggest supporters over the years, so there’s always a smile on my face when I pull their sign out of the backpack.

The kids (and their umbrellas) taking a breather.

Another look at the construction occurring. They’ve done a nice job of telling the cathedral’s story on the fencing wrap.

The Seine river runs through the heart of Paris and supplies about half of the water used in Paris. If you plan to watch the opening ceremonies of the upcoming Summer Olympics in Paris, the ceremonies will take place ON THE RIVER! It should be an amazing show and logistical accomplishment. I always like a good river that cuts through a city. Directions do not come natural to me, but I’m much better when there is a trusty river around. Speaking of having a trusty river around, my pal Colonel Bloomer fits that mold well. I got to work with Bloomer for a number of years at Phi Delt before his recent retirement. I love Steve’s love of the outdoors, so him selecting a river was no surprise. It’s fun to see him enjoying his retirement and his increasing grandfather duties.

Our next stop was the Latin Quarter, probably my second favorite area of Paris. It’s always amazing to me how one city neighborhood can go from looking one way and minutes later, there’s a whole different feel. I think I determined on this trip that when I’m older, not chasing around kids, and looking for time gaps to fill, I’m going to dig into city histories some more, to fully understand just what it is I’m looking at when I travel. Maybe change my name to Steves Rick for the heck of it.

As we were walking, I caught a glimpse of a little bakery that had fresh baquettes and dragged Cal inside. For months, Cal had been referencing his desire to eat a lot of baguettes and croissants in Paris. Well let’s get that party started.

With its youthful feel swarming around you in the Latin Quarter due to nearby universities, the Quarter’s main attraction is the Panthéon. Here’s a free piece of travel advice. If a city has something called the Panthéon, go check it out. It’ll always knock your socks off. I thanked Chris Loschiavo again for his donation. As you’ll notice over the next few blog posts, I had different combinations of kids fighting for spots in my donor pictures. It was a fun game, and a small way to keep them engaged along the way.

Another way to keep kids happy as you trek them around a city. Let them lay down where they want to along the way.

In the Latin Quarter, I also thanked my pal Ben Fleming who lives in Paris. Ben has been so kind over the years to meet up in the city with those who visit. He loves his adopted home, and I just love that he’s fully immersed himself and his career in a foreign city. Who needs Duolingo when you have Ben at your side. I was bummed we weren’t able to connect with Ben during this visit, but we’ll be back!

Another view of the Latin Quarter.

Walking west, we ended up at Jardin du Luxembourg, Luxembourg Gardens for those not hitting streaks on Duolingo. Home of the Luxembourg Palace and the Grand Bassin, along with much green space, this area is filled with people wanting some space in the big city. With hanger settling in, we snapped a quick donor picture for Steve Bloomer again before sitting down at a traditional French restaurant for lunch.

Following lunch, Jason recommended that we continue walking west to Les Invalides. Les Invalides contains museums and monuments, all relating to the military history of France. Jason is a military history buff and wanted to show us Napoleon’s tomb.

A look at the structure from the south.

And what do you know, bite-sized Napoleon was buried in a tomb that is excessively large.

What an amazing place!

On the north side of the structure is the court of honor of the Invalides, where I was able to snap one of my favorite pictures of the trip.

And take a picture of the kids.

As well as a picture of the family.

As the rain began to come in late afternoon, we strolled across Pont Alexandre III Bridge, one of Paris’ most famous bridges. Here, I thanked the wonderful Linda Carlson for her donation. Linda is one of the people I look forward to seeing most during Iowa State football games, in attendance at our tailgate with delicious food always in tow. I think I set a new record this fall for Carlson charcuterie board consumption. See, we appreciate French flare in the Midwest.

We took the Métro back to my favorite Paris stop at the base of Montmarte – Abbesses. It is the deepest Métro station in Paris with great art-deco design. We opted for the elevator to get out to appease the little ones.

We finished our day at the world-famous cabaret, the Moulin Rouge. When I studied abroad in Wales, our group took a weekend trip to Paris and decided to actually buy tickets to the Moulin Rogue. I remember having to buy an outfit in Paris for the show with its strict dress code. It was my first run-in with skinny pants, but the great seats made up for the uncomfortable trousers. I thanked Ben Fleming once again for his donation.

I caught Tess and Alaina putting on their own cabaret show.

If you’re familiar with Montmarte, the Airbnb entrance was on the right-hand side of the picture below, across the street from the famous Le Consulat.

With our bags packed we ventured down to the closest Metropolitain and headed to Gare de l’Est to catch our train to Germany. Au Revoir Paris, we’ll be back.